Ushuaia stretches across a few kilometres between the waters of the Beagle Channel and the steep slopes of the Martial Range. The city is home to some 80,000 inhabitants, making it Argentina's southernmost city and one of the most southern in the world, at the same latitude south as Glasgow lies to the north. Our team arrives here systematically by plane from Buenos Aires—a direct flight of 3.5 hours, sometimes with a stopover in El Calafate. The overland route exists but requires two border crossings with Chile and a ferry crossing of the Strait of Magellan, taking a minimum of 2 days from Punta Arenas.

Argentine Tierra del Fuego occupies the eastern half of the main island, the other half belonging to Chile. The terrain divides into three distinct zones: the Darwin Cordillera and its extensions to the south, covered in lenga and ñire forests that turn red in April; the steppe to the north around Rio Grande where sheep farming still anchors the economy; and the Beagle Channel coast where most visits concentrate. The climate stays cool year-round, with summers hovering between 9 and 15°C in January and February, and winters stable between -2 and 5°C. The westerly wind blows nearly continuously, and December's daylight stretches from 4am to past 10pm.

Tierra del Fuego National Park, 12 km west of the city, marks the terminus of the legendary Route 3 that began in Alaska. We offer walks of 2 to 5 hours along Lapataia Bay and Lake Roca, passing through Laguna Verde where spectacled ducks and upland geese nest. The End of the World Train, built to transport wood felled by inmates from Ushuaia's penitentiary until 1947, now runs through part of the park for 7 km of narrow gauge track. It's a short option that appeals especially to families with children.

Navigation on the Beagle Channel structures the typical second day. Boats leave Ushuaia port for Martillo islet, where a mixed colony of Magellanic and Gentoo penguins can be approached on foot between October and March under the supervision of a ranger. Les Éclaireurs lighthouse, often mistakenly confused with the one from Jules Verne's novel located further east, stands on a rock frequented by sea lions and imperial cormorants. Estancia Harberton, founded in 1886 by Anglican pastor Thomas Bridges, completes the visit: its original buildings, family cemetery, and marine osteology museum provide concrete insight into Yaghan history and early settlement.

Ushuaia also serves as embarkation port for almost all cruises to the Antarctic Peninsula. The season opens in late October and closes in late March, with departures concentrated between December and February. Drake Passage crossings take 36 to 48 hours in each direction, and itineraries run 10 to 21 days. We work with several shipping lines to position travellers on the right departures based on target wildlife—humpback whales in February or breeding penguins in November.

On the culinary front, local cuisine revolves around centolla, the king crab from cold waters served steamed in port restaurants, and Fuegian lamb roasted over an open fire, inherited from estancia traditions. For travellers seeking less-frequented terrain, Mitre Peninsula at the far east of the island remains one of Patagonia's most isolated zones, accessible only on foot or horseback over 7 to 10 days of autonomous expedition, reserved for experienced hikers accompanied by a guide.

Must-see

Tierra del Fuego National Park. An 8 km walk along the coastal trail between Ensenada Bay and Lapataia, with views of Chilean mountains across the Beagle Channel. Lenga forests, peatbogs and beavers introduced in the 1940s.

Boat excursion to Martillo Island. A half-day boat trip to the Magellanic and Gentoo penguin colony, with supervised landing between November and March. Passing the Les Éclaireurs lighthouse and sea lion rocks.

Estancia Harberton and Acatushún Museum. Visit to Tierra del Fuego's oldest estancia, founded in 1886, and its marine osteology museum housing over 2,700 skeletons of mammals and birds from southern seas.

Embarkation for Antarctica. Departures from Ushuaia port between late October and late March for 10 to 21-day cruises via Drake Passage. Routes include Antarctic Peninsula, South Shetland, sometimes South Georgia and the Falklands.

Trek in Tierra Mayor Valley. 25 km east of Ushuaia, a day's hike to Ojo del Albino glacier through peatbogs and Laguna Esmeralda. Plan on 8 hours round trip, moderate elevation gain.

When to visit

Peak season runs from November to March, with a spike in January-February when temperatures swing between 9 and 15°C during the day and drop to 5°C at night. December offers the longest days, up to 17 hours of daylight, allowing you to combine morning hiking and afternoon navigation. Penguins are present at Martillo from October to April, with chicks visible from December onwards. April marks the colour shift: lengas turn red-orange for three weeks, our preferred period for photography, but several operators close by mid-April.

From May to September, the city shifts into winter mode. Cerro Castor ski centre operates from June to October, with temperatures between -5 and 3°C and around 3 metres of accumulated snow. Navigation on the Beagle Channel becomes rare in July-August due to wind and daylight reduced to 7 hours. We advise against this period for travellers focused on hiking and marine wildlife, but it suits lovers of snow-covered landscapes and dog sledding in Tierra Mayor Valley.

Practical advice

We recommend a minimum of 3 nights on site to cover the national park, a Beagle Channel navigation, and a visit to Estancia Harberton without rushing. Plan 4 to 5 nights if you add the Laguna Esmeralda trek or a day on horseback. For an Antarctic cruise, you need to allocate 12 to 23 days total, including arrival at Ushuaia at least 24 hours early, as embarkation is non-refundable if your flight is delayed. Malvinas Argentinas airport receives 4 to 6 daily flights from Buenos Aires and one weekly direct flight from El Calafate during peak season.

Ushuaia logically combines with El Calafate and glaciers for Perito Moreno, 1 hour 20 minutes by plane, then with El Chaltén Fitz Roy for hiking. Travellers continuing on the Chilean side reach Torres del Paine overland in 14 to 16 hours via Punta Arenas. Hotel comfort levels are good, with 3 and 4-star establishments in the city centre and a few isolated lodges on the Beagle Channel, but capacity remains limited: we book rooms 6 to 9 months in advance for January and February. The destination suits both contemplatives content with navigations and short walks and hikers ready to venture towards Mitre Peninsula, provided they accept permanent wind and weather that changes several times a day.